This took some precise timing, as the 'Ordinary' (cheaper) train only runs once a week, and the 'Express' (more expensive) train also only runs once a week, but luckily everything worked out well so we were in Dar to get the 'Ordinary' train.
Seeing as there were 3 of us, we splashed out and bought a whole first class cabin (4 berth) which we had to do if we wanted to share, as mixed sexes can't share open cabins. This worked out very well for some South African guys we'd met on the ferry coming back from Zanzibar, as there were 5 of them, but the 6 berth cabins had 2 top bunks, so close to the metal ceiling of the train, it was literally like being in an oven. So one of them was very relieved to come and stay in our cabin!
Dar es Salaam ► Mbeya ► Kapiri Mposhi | ||||
| km | Classes: | "Mukuba" or "Kilimanjaro" Express train 1S, 2S, 2, 3, M or R | Mukuba" or "Kilimanjaro" Ordinary train 1S, 2S, 2, 3, R | |
| 0 | Dar es Salaam | depart | 15:50 Tuesdays | 13:50 Fridays |
| 849 | Mbeya | arrive depart | 13:08 Wednesdays 13:23 Wednesdays | 14:10 Saturdays 14:40 Saturdays |
| 969 | Tunduma (frontier) | arrive depart | 17:02 Wednesdays 17:17 Wednesdays | 18:38 Saturdays 18:53 Saturdays |
| 970 | Nakonde | arrive depart | 16:22 Wednesdays 16:47 Wednesdays | 17:58 Saturdays 18:18 Saturdays |
| 1852 | Kapiri Mposhi (New) | arrive | 09:26 Thursdays | 13:37 Sundays |
It ended up costing us about 72,000TSH each to book the whole cabin, but seeing as there were 2,200TSH to £1 when we were there, this was about £32 each and so not too bad.
The train left the station only about 3 hours late, which was not too bad. We'd been rightly told that the train cafe starts off serving pretty nice food...but as you get further into the journey, and they run out of everything, you get the choice of rice....or chips...or rice. So we'd brought our own supplies of 'train food' mainly in the form of Baked Beans (Heinz of course!), Mangoes and crisps. The train carriage had a lock on the inside of the door, but not one on the outside, and a big sign saying that Tanzania Railways would not be held responsible if (they mean when) your stuff gets stolen. So this meant that at least one of us had to stay in the compartment at all times, to be on guard.
The landscape was incredibly beautiful, so we sent much of the journey hoping to spot lions and elephants out of the windows. We didn't see any, but we did see some 15ft high termite mounds...apparently Zambia has a termite problem!!
We had bought our Visas in Dar in advance as we were told you couldn't buy them on the train (you could, and for exactly the same price), and by the time we crossed the border, it was around midnight, so whilst cosily tucked up in our very comfy bunks, the customs official came round and stamped us out of Tanzania. We were then stamped into Zambia at a much more reasonable time of about 7am. I've never been through customs in bed before, but it was so smooth and easy! I think more borders should allow it!!
Despite leaving only a few hours late, we arrived into Kapiri Mposhi around 8 hours late, but impressively enough, the matatus were there waiting, ready to take us straight on to the capital, Lusaka, where we found a lovely hostel to spend the night.
So 56 hours spent on a train...without getting off! Definitely an experience, and one that would be hard to beat! Trans-Siberian next...
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