I'm currently re-watching Long Way Down (whilst knitting) and it takes me back to my trip from Cairo to Jo'burg back in 2009/10 which was one of the best adventures of my life.
One gorgeous place we went to was Banda Island, in Lake Victoria which we heard about whilst drinking with some locals at the NRE (Nile River Explorers) in Jinja. We were basically given a phone number to text, told to wait a few days (as to get signal on the island you have to stand on some rocks leaning out over the lake) and we would be sent directions as to how to get there.
Which we did. At this point we weren't sure if Banda Island was just a bit of a backpacker urban myth, so we were excited to get a response with directions.
We had to get a bus to Kasenyi, which is a short matatu ride from Kampala, and then ask for the boat to Banda. So far so good. We were also asked to buy sliced white bread on the way as the owner had been craving it and noone had visited in a while.
When we got to Kasenyi, and found the boat, we were told that we had to be carried onto the boat. At this point we thought 'haha, this is just a ploy to get more money from the mzungus' so we stalled for a while, until we saw locals paying the 20p equivalent to also be carried onto the boat and realised that they hadn't been having us on!
So we piled into the fishing boat in the picture above, and by the time we were set off, we were loaded with about 30 people, luggage, and a handful of goats and chickens, that the water was only about 4 inches below the top of the boat.
Which was fine until the weather turned. The wind picked up, the rain poured down and the waves were pouring over the side of the boat. Then it got dark. Bearing in mind that we'd paid to be carried into the boat so that we didn't go in the water and catch Bilharzia, we were now drenched!! Although that was the least of our worries as we were genuinely convinced at this point that we were going to die. We'd been told the journey would take 2/3 hours so after 4, with no idea where we were, the engine intermittently cutting out, and, the storm worsening, we really thought this was the end!
After about 5 hours, we stopped again, and this time addressed by the captain and told to get out. In pitch dark sea this is terrifying. Then we saw a small boat had pulled along side us, probably about the size of a Canadian canoe. In it was a Ugandan lady, wearing a life jacket, bailing water out of the bottom of the boat, and praying loudly.
In this situation, it's not really clear where is the better place to be, but we did as we were told and got into this canoe. Luckily, about 45 mins later WE SAW LAND!!!!
With a very worried looking Dom who had been expecting us hours before! Luckily we had a great welcome, and were plied with home made banana liquor which was deadly, and plenty of food.
It turned out we were the only people who had been to Banda Island for a while and it was great! We spent the days lazing, drinking banana liquor, feasting, and chatting to Dom, hearing tales of his life growing up in East Africa.
Our accommodation was right on the beach and beautifully comfortable and the island had the fanciest long drop I'd ever seen!!!
So watching Long Way Down made me think of my visit here, and I was very saddened to learn that Dom has since passed away. We had such a great time on Banda, and learnt so much about the Island and life in East Africa. However, I am pleased that the legend of Banda Island is still continuing and people are still going to visit.
Despite the near death experience on the way there, it was still one of my favourite places in Africa and I would definitely recommend anyone in the area to go and visit!
